The Artistry of Bourbon

Bourbon is perhaps the most American of spirits, given that its history is entwined with the nation’s in nearly every conceivable way – affected by the Revolutionary War, immigration, taxation, explosive growth, hard-to-predict obstacles, geography, agriculture, Prohibition and repeal, and legislative definitions. Yes, it draws its name from the French Bourbon dynasty (no one seems to know why, but the answer may be in the charred oak barrels), but it was born in the United States, grew up here, and is now one of the strongest categories every year in spirits sales.

The bottom line for bourbon is that it must begin with a mash bill (the grains used to make the whiskey) that is at least 51 percent corn, which explains why this particular spirit ranges from slightly sweet to sweet, especially when compared to its cousin rye. The whiskey must also be aged in charred, new oak barrels. This tradition dates back to the early 19th century, when French merchants settled in the Ohio and Mississippi River Valleys, bringing with them the charred-barrel practices of the Cognac region of France. Finally, the whiskey must be distilled to no higher than 160 proof, barreled no higher than 125 proof, and bottled no lower than 80 proof.

Does it have to come from Bourbon County, Kentucky, to be “real” bourbon? No. The U.S. is not France, where regionality is dictated by law, such that Burgundy must come from Burgundy and Champagne from Champagne. In the U.S., the primary stipulation is related to states for whiskey, so Kentucky Bourbon has to come from Kentucky, but “bourbon” can be made anywhere in the U.S. so long as it follows the mash bill, barrel aging, and ABV guidelines.

The more recent buyer interest in the spirit has led to a boom in bourbon production, with delicious versions coming from Colorado (Breckenridge), Ohio (Noble Oak), Tennessee (Heaven’s Door), Texas (Balcones and Blackland), and Wyoming (Wyoming Whiskey). One of the largest producers of whiskey – not just bourbon – in the U.S. is MGP in Indiana. Recently, they created the Ross and Squib name to distinguish their products not sold to third parties, including George Remus Bourbon, and they now have an operation in Kentucky, as well.

As for the name, it’s commonly agreed that the first use of “bourbon” to describe this specific type of whiskey happened in Kentucky’s Western Citizen newspaper in 1821. Why they used it or where the inspiration came from is lost to history. Americans had been producing whiskey since at least the Revolutionary War, when imports of rum and other favorites fell off during the conflict. Dr. James Crow introduced and standardized the sour mash process in 1835, and in 1897, the U.S. government created “bottled in bond” standards to cut down on dangerous additives and mislabeling. The last major decision – other than Prohibition and repeal – that affected what we now know as bourbon was President William Howard Taft’s move in 1909 to make terms like bourbon and rye related to the grains in the mash.