Entertaining
Holly Shaw, DipWSET, ReserveBar Wine Contributor
Toast to magical moments
with our collection of holiday favorites.
It’s time to kick start the holiday season. Nothing says celebration like a table of friends sitting there eagerly awaiting your culinary greatness while cheering you on with vino in hand. In the past twenty months, our friend group has gone from non-existent to a small group of people who have become tightly knit and trusted. So I’m here to propose the return of Friendsgiving, which has never been more important than now. It doesn’t refer to the raucous house parties of yore, but a celebration of your closest friends, because you could never be more thankful for them.
Step one: Choose a day and invite your people. Step two: Choose a menu—traditional Thanksgiving fare or something else. For this purpose, I’m going traditional. Step three: Choose the wine.
I’m here to help with that last part — picking the wine shouldn't be stressful, but it certainly can be. So let’s take the angst out of serving up the Friendsgiving table wine and make this the fun part! First of all, let’s trash the idea of “the perfect pairing,” but instead, think about what your friends like to drink. Second, let’s avoid a robust, high alcohol wine because it will clash with the meal no matter what.
My recommendation is to go with something classic that can fit a wide variety of food and flavors. Typically, the rule is that you match the color of the meat with the wine, which means white wine is perfect for Turkey's big day. But, this rule is intended to be broken because red wine can be equally delicious. Keep reading — I’ll tell you why!
One of the greatest wines in the world is often misunderstood. Why? I bet you’re already judging me as you recall the sweet wine your grandparents were sipping back in the day. I’m here to tell you that riesling is one of the best food wines because it allows the food to shine and enhances flavors rather than overpowering them. Turkey dripping in gravy is a perfect food for riesling because of the wine’s high acid and delicate fruit flavors.
Now a quick lesson on picking a riesling. They can range from dry to sweet, and unless you went to wine school, it's hard to understand the nuances of the Prådikat system. But don’t let that keep you away. Prized riesling hails from both Germany and France (Alsace). The difference between the two countries is that Alsace typically makes a bone-dry but slightly heavier example compared to Germany. But, don’t just stick to those two regions; you can find great examples from Oregon, Finger Lakes and Washington State as well.
German riesling runs the gamut from bone-dry to sticky sweet, but the balance of acidity gives a gorgeous sip in the glass. A tip when looking at German riesling is to look at the alcohol level. The higher the alcohol typically means it's drier. The lower usually indicates sweetness. Normally, anything above 12.5% is dry. I always serve a dry riesling at my table. It's also a fantastic addition to the gravy!
Famille Hugel is a classic producer from Alsace, which makes a consistently good example of riesling. This is a great value wine that also makes higher-end examples with deeper flavors, intensity, and age.
Sauvignon blanc is a classic wine that can stand up to a variety of foods and is a perfect sip with turkey. Known for its high acid and zesty flavors, this wine is a great companion for your food and guests. You can’t go wrong with either a more mineral-driven Sancerre from a classic producer, like Pascal Jolivet Sancerre, or a zesty New Zealand sauvignon blanc, like Cloudy Bay.
Two great California examples are Stags Leap or Frog’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc. Another one of my favorites is Orin Swift; he makes his sauvignon blanc with 20% oak which gives it a bit more weight on the palate to step up the pairing.
As we start to come out of the ABC movement (Anything But Chardonnay), you might need a little refresher on why chardonnay is respected as the great varietal that it is, whether it's a mineral-driven Chablis to a white Burgundian classic. The reason chardonnay works well with food is that it's a very versatile grape. Let’s not forget that it also makes bubbles! Chardonnay pairs well with turkey, butter sauces, squash, and risotto.
There are a few directions to go here because not all chardonnay is the same, ranging from the austere and mineral wines in Europe to rich, full-bodied American examples. I would stay away from big, oaky expressions and lean towards a leaner Chablis or white Burgundy with higher acid, which can cut into the richness of the dinner.
My recommendations: Regnard Grand Chablis, Capensis Western Cape Chardonnay, Louis Latour Pouilly-Fuisse, and François Labet Bourgogne.
Ahhh, bubbles. Every day should be filled with bubbles. Winemaking styles and grapes can vary, but in general, grapes for sparkling wine are picked earlier and slightly less ripe, which leads to sharper acidity levels, making it perfect for food pairing. It can offer a balance to salty and creamy dishes leaving your palate refreshed and ready for more. Avoid red meat with this pairing.
I would recommend: Ruinart Rosé, Veuve Clicquot, Champagne Bollinger, Perrier-Jouet, and Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rosé.
If you want to branch out of the classics, try:
Jermann Vinnae Ribolla Gialla: An elegant white wine from Northern Italy. This is an ancient white grape varietal typically used to make orange wine or a high acid crisp white wine. Worth sipping!
Château Mont Redon 2018 Châteauneuf du Pape: Let’s just say — gorgeous!
There will always be a few friends that shun white wine. So, let’s make sure you are prepared with red wine options. The key to picking a red wine for a dinner party is to go for something that doesn't overpower the dinner, which can make the food taste metallic or heavy. Pinot noir is one of the most food-friendly wines and goes with just about everything. Soft tannins will enhance the food while the acidity and fruit flavors create a perfect bite. What's better than a forkful of turkey and cranberry sauce? Nothing. Except, of course, a sip of pinot noir with it.
The wine intensifies the fruit flavors and enhances the taste of the turkey. Pinot Noir can range from a more earthy style (Burgundy) to more fruit-forward examples in California. My picks: A cool climate example from Cloudy Bay which is light and fresh on the palate, or Flowers Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast are great choices. Also try: Orin Swift Pinot Noir, Domaine Faiveley Burgundy, and Maison Louis Jadot Burgundy.
You might not think of this Italian classic as a pairing for a big American holiday dinner, but the truth is the red cherry and dried fruit profile here is perfect. The Nebbiolo grape varietal pairs great with mushroom dishes, stews, risotto, and sausage stuffing. Avoid cheeses and spicy food! I wouldn’t go for an extremely old vintage. Stick for something younger with more fruit-forward flavors. My picks: Renato Ratti Barolo, Marchesi di Barolo and Sottimano Barbaresco.
If you get a chance, try Barolo Chinato, which is Barolo infused with herbs and spices! This wine serves as a delicious after-dinner treat and it's a great digestif.
You say syrah, I say shiraz. It doesn't matter how you say it; it's the same grape and a delicious, underrated wine. Syrah can take on many flavors, from blueberry and raspberry to smoky with hints of black pepper. Some of the most prized syrah comes from the hills of Hermitage in Northern Rhône.
For a little fun trivia, a few winemakers from California started a movement called Rhône Rangers to craft wines in the style and taste from Northern Rhône. This movement increased the plantings of Syrah — thank you, Rangers! Try Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz from Australia or Tenet Syrah from Washington. Washington is new to the syrah game, but making some of my favorite examples. Now that you are prepared to shop for wine, here are a few tips to keep your party going:
If you end up with a bottle of riesling, throw some in the gravy when you make it. You can thank me later.
A few days ahead of time, make some pumpkin or butternut squash soup to serve as an appetizer while guests wait for the meal to start. Pair it with a viognier, but it also goes great with riesling or a delicious Sancerre.
Also, if your friend remembers to grab white wine on the way and it shows up warm, don’t panic. Grab an ice bucket and add ice, water and lots of salt (yes, salt) to the ice bucket. Magically, that wine will be cooled down in 10-15 minutes. Another option is to wrap a wet paper towel around the bottle and put it in the freezer for 10 minutes.
Remember your vegetarian friends. Make sure you have enough sides for them. If you want to be the super friend, make a butternut squash risotto. It will be a huge hit with everyone!
If a big turkey intimidates you for Friendsgiving, make a roasted chicken instead. My go-to is Ina Garten's engagement chicken. Always delicious and never disappoints!
Now, all you have to do is invite your friends, order your wine and start planning. Everyone knows the best part of cooking is sipping on wine while you stir and chop. We wish you the very happiest season of savoring friendships, good food, and wine.